Tale of Two Bridges

Can one spend his or her entire life at the same place or at the max, visit the next village? Hard to image, but this is true for most tribal belts.

Near the far eastern point of India’s border with Tibet (China), Kaho is the last village and before that is a place called Meshai, also spelt as Mosai. From Tezu, the headquarter of Lohit district – out of which was carved out in 2006 the Anjaw district that is home to Kaho and Mosai – these two places are almost 230 kms away, a good whole day drive in a sturdy vehicle plus few hours more in optimal weather conditions on the road snaking through the layers and layers of Himalayan folds.

The road from Tezu till Walong and Kibithoo runs parallel to the river on its right bank. Kaho and Mosai are on the left bank. Till 2009, the two villages were connected with Kibithoo and, hence, rest of India, only through a steel-and-bamboo hanging bridge on the mighty Lohit river.

Crossing this bridge is a task in itself. Cutting across a deep gorge, the Lohit river literally roars below with ferocity. Almost any time of the day, there is a strong wind gushing through the gorge making the bridge swing like mad.

In 2009, the Indian Army built a suspension bridge, bringing much needed relief. Suddenly, reaching Tezu was easy. One was able to carry as much luggage as one wanted. Medical aid in times of emergency was possible. Children’s vaccination would happen on time.

Unfortunately, this bridge was washed away in Lohit’s perilous floods in 2012. For quite many years, people were back to the hanging bridge again. And now, thankfully, there is another suspension bridge little downstream and things are looking bright again.