Musings of a Wandering Heart

Sunday, January 03, 2021

Amarkantak’s two pictures

On any visit to a serene place, be it in the hills or plains, one always returns with two or three ‘freeze frames’ images. It happens with me always. And a recent trip to Amarkantak was no exception. It is in eastern Madhya Pradesh, on its border with Chhattisgarh.  

I went to Amarkantak this winter after 14-15 years. The Amarkantak that I saw this time was a far cry from the tranquil Amarkantak I remember from my younger years and a relatively better spot in 2006.

The temple complex which has a kund is considered the udgam, origin, of the sacred river Narmada. Any time of the day, the tank brimming with water reflects the temple, a minimum 1000-year vintage, stone structure painted with lime and hence sparkling white.




The difference between the changes in the landscape, the increased pollution, decreased jungles etc. were a cause of concern. But what was more disturbing for me was the ‘encroachment’ by a massive currently under construction Jain temple on a hill. (A disclaimer: I have nothing against Jainism or the Jain temple per say, the problem I have is the towering temple creating widespread felling of jungle around its designated spot and adding to concretization.)

The Jain temple is situated high on the hill that is part of the catchment of the minor streams that feed the origin of the Narmada river and its first few kilometres. The temple, rising above the canopies of whatever trees are left on that hill on the northern side of the temple complex is visible from the hills on the southern side. 



The site, to a layperson, offers a beautiful vista from far. But this appeared as an attack on my mind, body and soul in love with Narmada!!

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